A few months ago, a friend and noted chef asked me for my definition of cooking. My kneejerk response was “transforming an ingredient.” He immediately dismissed my response, asking if orange juice was cooking. He had a point. He shut me up. After that encounter, I...
Enrique Olvera is the most visible member of a new wave of Mexican chefs reinterpreting their culture’s culinary traditions. He owns several restaurants in Mexico, most notably Pujol, in the capital. In 2014, he opened a New York City restaurant, Cosme, which...
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