In mid-17th century France, when sauces were thin and acidic, and vegetables were pushed to the side, François Pierre de la Varenne championed butter and Jerusalem artichokes. Whereas aristocratic French food and cooking techniques had remained medieval, and if...
When Chef Alain Senderens recalls the period when he suggested a particular glass of wine with every dish at Lucas Carton many years ago, he remembers that everyone was against it—including his wife. “What year was this?” René Redzepi yells from the audience, where he...
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