Margot Henderson

Margot Henderson

Chef, UK


The Passion, the Probe, and the Problem

Margot Henderson, chef at London’s Rochelle Canteen, argues against current trends in fine dining in her MAD3 speech: “I think the male approach dominates and the female one is overlooked. Food in a lot of kitchens is treated as a problem to be solved, something to dominate, something that has to give up its secrets. Kitchens are turned into laboratories, filled with tools and weapons: vacuum packers, sous vides, probes, and all the other stuff. Sometimes the instinctive part gets lost. It almost makes me weep to be told that to confit a duck leg in plastic underwater is just as good as to confit in duck fat.”

 

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