On a rainy afternoon in Belleville, the worn working-class neighborhood in northeastern Paris where tourists come to gape at the small plaque on the façade of the house on the steep street where Edith Piaf was born 1915, there’s a softly fruity and bracingly...
Writer Alexander Lobrano, author of the indispensable restaurant guide “Hungry For Paris” and a contributor to the New York Times, the Guardian, and Bon Appétit, among many other publications, argues that a shift away from fundamental cooking has altered the dining...
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